Step by Step to Aquaponics Gardening -Video

Learn all there is to know about Aquaponics gardening in Aquaponics 4 You, a complete guide on starting up and running an aquaponics system.

Dealing With Pests and Diseases

There are a few different methods of dealing with any pests and/or diseases in your system, of course most of these require no petrochemical based sprays as these are generally very toxic to fish and also possibly the beneficial bacteria within the aquaponics system. 

Caterpillars are easily controlled by applications of Bacillus thuringiensis, this is a natural soil borne bacteria which is available around the world under a number of different brand names. Often organically certified the spray is safe for aquaponic systems.

For sap sucking insects you can use chilli and garlic sprays, these are often available commercially now a days, however they should always be used in moderation, as excess and overspray is never good.

For moulds and fungus on plants you can use potassium bicarbonate sprayed onto the effected plants. Potassium bicarbonate is available under a number of different brand names around the world. It also can help a system by adding potassium, something often lacking in an aquaponics system and the bicarbonate helps to keep the pH up, as most of the time pH goes down in mature systems.

If slugs are a problem, a small saucer filled with beer will attract them and they easily drown, making disposal simple and effective. Coloured sticky traps work well for thrips, aphids and whiteflies and are a good way to monitor visitors to your aquaponic system

Feeding Your Aquaponics Fish

Feeding your aquaponics fish is one of your daily tasks when running an Aquaponics system. It is vital for the fish and in turn essential for the production of plant nutrients. In this article we’ll talk about the what, when and how to feed your fish. We’ll also talk about using auto-feeders for the ones among you who like to automate life!

Most fish are not picky on feeding schedule; indeed in the wild there is no such thing as regular feeding. They will adjust their metabolisms and growth rates according to food availability. So if you want to grow fish quickly, simply feed them often. However, be careful with crowding because a population density which is too high will make the fish labile to disease outbreaks. With regards to the actual amounts of feed per feeding session, you should give them as much feed as they can eat within five minutes.

Many automatic feeders are available, differing in complexity and price. However, you can get simple cheap ones which will do the job just fine. You should set the feeding times at once or twice daily, possibly more if you want to grow fish quickly and have a low stocking density. Using an automatic feeder does not mean that you can stop checking on you system daily, because if you do, you won’t know if anything goes wrong with the system.

With regards to the actual feed, most people opt for commercial feed, which is an excellent choice. Commercial fee is either of the omnivorous or carnivorous type and these will differ in their quantities of protein. Check with your local fisheries department for the most suitable one for the particular fish species you are growing; though most fish thrive well on both. Feed also comes in different pellet sizes – you should get the small ones for young fish and larger ones as the fish grow bigger.

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Many Aquaponics gardeners grow their own fish feed to drastically cut costs. The most commonly grown of such feeds is duckweed, a fast growing plant that is rich in protein. You can grow this in a separate tank or pond. To provide more protein, you can also grow worms and black soldier fly larvae. You can also feed your fish some garden scraps. For example, most omnivorous fish will enjoy bland-tasting plants and vegetable, such as lettuce. Be careful that the plant-food you give to the fish is not covered in pesticides or other harmful chemicals.

Starting Your Aquaponics Systems Without Fish

Aquaponics fishless cycling is a method of starting up your Aquaponics farming system without using fish. When you first start an Aquaponics system, there will be no bacteria. Bacteria are crucial in the running of the system, as they are responsible for breaking down toxic fish waste and transforming it into nutrients for the plants. In traditional cycling, you put your fish into the newly setup system, and they will start generating ammonia (fish waste). Eventually, nitrosomonas bacteria will colonize the system, and these will break down the ammonia into nitrites (which are still toxic). Another species of bacteria will then colonize the system – nitrobacter – and these will break down the nitrites into nitrates, which make excellent plant fertilizer. The problem is that colonization by bacteria takes time, and in the meantime ammonia and nitrites can build up in the water to toxic levels, harming and possibly killing the fish. Aquaponics fishless cycling avoids this problem, as fish are introduced only after the bacterial colonies have established themselves.

To carry out Aquaponics fishless cycling, you need to buy a source of ammonia – generally found in Cyclic Kits. Next, add in the ammonia to the fish tank’s water until you get a level between 2 to 4ppm (parts per million). For fish tanks smaller than 100 gallons, add half a teaspoon of ammonia at a time, and test. Consult the mixing instructions on the ammonia you buy, as different types of mixtures have different strengths. If you overshoot, and you get a reading higher than 4ppm, simply remove some of the water and add in fresh water to dilute the ammonia strength.

Once you get a level of 2 to 4ppm, you should test the water every day for ammonia, nitrites and pH levels. When ammonia levels start dropping, add some more to keep a level of 2 to 4ppm. Once nitrates appear (at least 5ppm), stop adding ammonia. Shortly after, the ammonia and nitrite levels should drop to below 0.5ppm. What this happens, the cycling is over and you can safely add the fish. During the cycling process, try to keep the temperature of the water to about 77 to 86°F and the pH to around 7 to 8, as this will speed up bacterial growth.

Aquaponics cycling without fish is safer than when you use fish, and much quicker. Typically, with the fishless method you can get your system up and running in just 10 days, compared to the 4 weeks it would take if you opt for cycling with fish.

Adding Salt to Your Aquaponics Systems

Many people add salt to their aquaponics system and you may be thinking of doing the same. The practice of adding salt in Aquaponics systems has its pros and cons, and if you decide to use salt you should do so carefully.

The main purpose of adding salt in Aquaponics systems is for disease control; salt acts like a natural anti-bacterial agent. In addition, a small amount of salt improves the mucous covering on a fish’s body, and this improves the resistance of the fish to diseases and parasites. Salt may also help to prevent fungal infections. If you opt for salt addition, use pure sea salt and avoid table salt. If you can’t find any pure sea salt, swimming pool salt is a viable alternative.

However, adding too much salt will kill the fish and stunt plant growth. Therefore, when adding salt, you should do it only in calculated amounts. A good rule of thumb is 1 to 2 ppt (parts per thousand) of salt to water. Some plants and fish will tolerate higher levels, but if you are a novice in Aquaponics systems, you should stick to this amount. Remember, that as time passes, the concentration of salt in the system will change. Evaporation of water, water taken up by the plants, etc… will lead to an increase in salt concentration. It is therefore important that you monitor salt concentration regularly, and you can do so by using an apparatus called a refractometer. You can buy cheap refractometers for just a few dollars and they will do the job.

Many people will have a separate small tank that they use for sick fish, a kind of quarantine tank. This is a good idea as it prevents the spread of disease to other fish and allows you to give medication only to the sick fish and not to the whole system. If you keep such a tank, salt can be very useful, as salt will enhance the fish’s immune system. You can use higher concentration of salt in your sick tank – up to 10 ppt for a few hours to a few days. Make sure to keep the tank well oxygenated.

As mentioned already, different fish have different levels of salt tolerance, so to be on the safe side check with your local fisheries department for levels of tolerability of the species you are growing. In addition, remember that even if the fish you are growing are very tolerant to salt (for example tilapia can be grown in a salt concentration of up to 20-30ppt), the plants will not tolerate high concentrations. It is safer if you stick to 1-2ppt.